By Dr. Liia, PharmD — Pharmacist & Founder, EpiLynx by Dr. Liia | 6 min read
Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is a thorny shrub that grows at altitude across the Himalayas, Mongolia and northern Europe. Its small orange berries have been used medicinally for well over a thousand years, and they are one of the few plant sources on earth that supplies all four omega fatty acids.
I use it in my own formulations. Here is what it actually does for skin, what the evidence supports, and what it does not.
What Makes Sea Buckthorn Unusual
Most plant oils are useful for one or two things. Sea buckthorn is unusual because of its fatty acid profile.
Palmitoleic acid. This is the one that matters most for skin. Palmitoleic acid is an omega-7 fatty acid that occurs naturally in human sebum — the oil your own skin produces. Very few botanical oils contain it in meaningful quantity. Because it so closely resembles what your skin already makes, it absorbs readily and supports the barrier rather than sitting on top of it.
Linoleic acid (omega-6). The most abundant fatty acid in healthy human skin. Skin that is dry, eczema-prone or acne-prone is frequently low in linoleic acid, and topping it up topically is one of the better-supported interventions in barrier repair.
Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). Anti-inflammatory, and studied specifically in relation to eczema and atopic skin.
Carotenoids and vitamin E. These give the oil its deep orange colour and provide antioxidant protection against environmental damage.
Put plainly: a compromised skin barrier loses water faster than it can replace it, and that water loss is not just a dryness problem — it directly generates itch signalling and leaves skin more permeable to irritants. Sea buckthorn supplies the same lipids the barrier is short of, in a form the skin recognises. If that is why you are reading this, the one I would start you on is the Gluten-Free Vegan Moisturizer for Sensitive & Dry Skin — sea buckthorn alongside aloe, borage and neem, with no fragrance, gluten, nuts or coconut. The evidence section below is the honest version of what to expect from it.
What the Evidence Actually Supports
Reasonably well supported for skin: wound healing, barrier repair, and reducing the appearance of dryness and flaking. A small controlled study found reduced psoriasis symptoms after four to eight weeks of topical sea buckthorn extract.
Promising but not proven: improvement in acne and eczema. The mechanism is plausible and the fatty acid profile is right, but the human trials are small and few.
Frequently overstated: you will see sea buckthorn marketed for heart disease, diabetes, liver health and cancer prevention. Most of that comes from animal or test-tube work, or from studies of oral supplementation rather than topical use. As a pharmacist I would not make those claims, and I would be cautious of any skincare brand that does.
Oral Versus Topical
Sea buckthorn is sold both as a supplement and as a skincare ingredient. They are not interchangeable. The skin benefits described above come from applying it to skin. If you are considering taking it orally, speak to your doctor or pharmacist first — particularly if you are pregnant, nursing, or taking anticoagulants, since some evidence suggests an effect on platelet aggregation.
Where to Find It in the EpiLynx Line
Sea buckthorn appears across our dry and sensitive skin range, in a routine order:
- Cleanse with the Gluten-Free Vegan Facial Cleanser — aloe and cucumber, non-stripping, so you are not undoing the barrier work.
- Moisturise with the Gluten-Free Vegan Moisturizer daily, or the richer Face Cream for Extremely Dry Skin if your skin is genuinely depleted.
- Below the neck, the Gluten-Free Vegan Body Cream for dry, itchy skin.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does sea buckthorn oil do for skin?
It supplies palmitoleic acid (omega-7), which occurs naturally in human sebum, plus linoleic acid and GLA. Together those support barrier repair and reduce water loss, which is why it suits dry, flaking and reactive skin. It also carries carotenoids and vitamin E for antioxidant protection.
Is sea buckthorn good for eczema?
Promising, not proven. The GLA content is anti-inflammatory and the linoleic acid addresses a genuine deficiency in eczema-prone skin, so the mechanism makes sense — but the human trials are small. It is reasonable to try alongside your usual management, not instead of it.
Will sea buckthorn oil stain my skin or pillowcase?
Pure sea buckthorn oil is deep orange and can leave a temporary tint. Formulated into a moisturiser at cosmetic concentrations, as it is in ours, it does not — the colour is diluted well below the point where it transfers.
Is sea buckthorn safe if I have nut or gluten allergies?
Yes. Sea buckthorn is a berry, not a nut or a grain. Our products containing it are gluten-free, nut-free, coconut-free and fragrance-free — but as with anything new, patch test on the inner elbow first if you have a history of contact allergy.
🌿 The three I would start with:
- Gluten-Free Vegan Moisturizer — the daily option, and the best starting point
- Face Cream for Extremely Dry Skin — richer, for depleted skin
- Gluten-Free Vegan Body Cream — for dry, itchy skin below the neck
All gluten-free, nut-free, coconut-free and vegan. Free US shipping on orders over $39.
A Note on Safety
Sea buckthorn is well tolerated topically and has a long history of use. Side effects are uncommon. As with any new product, patch test behind the ear or on the inner elbow and wait 30 minutes before applying more widely — particularly if you have a history of contact allergy. If you develop any unexplained reaction after using a product containing sea buckthorn, stop and speak to your doctor.
Keep reading: The Difference Between Dry and Dehydrated Skin · How to Repair Your Skin Barrier
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