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Article: Fragrance Allergy: The 26 Names You Have to Check For

The 26 declarable fragrance allergens to check on any label — from EpiLynx by Dr. Liia
allergies

Fragrance Allergy: The 26 Names You Have to Check For

Fragrance mix is consistently one of the top three causes of allergic contact dermatitis worldwide. The problem for anyone trying to avoid it is that "parfum" on a label can legally represent dozens to hundreds of individual chemicals, none of which have to be disclosed, because fragrance blends are protected as trade secrets.

There is one useful exception. EU regulations require 26 specific fragrance chemicals to be named individually on the label when present above a threshold. Those 26 are the most frequently implicated allergens, and because most global brands use one label worldwide, you will often see them on US packaging too.

If you see any of these names, the product contains fragrance — regardless of what the front of the bottle claims.

Written by Dr. Liia Ramachandra, PharmD, PhD — pharmacist, formulator and founder of EpiLynx.

The 26 declarable fragrance allergens

  1. Amyl cinnamal
  2. Amylcinnamyl alcohol
  3. Anisyl alcohol
  4. Benzyl alcohol
  5. Benzyl benzoate
  6. Benzyl cinnamate
  7. Benzyl salicylate
  8. Cinnamal (cinnamaldehyde)
  9. Cinnamyl alcohol
  10. Citral
  11. Citronellol
  12. Coumarin
  13. Eugenol
  14. Farnesol
  15. Geraniol
  16. Hexyl cinnamal
  17. Hydroxycitronellal
  18. Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC, "Lyral") — now banned in the EU after causing widespread sensitization
  19. Isoeugenol
  20. Limonene
  21. Linalool
  22. Methyl 2-octynoate
  23. Alpha-isomethyl ionone
  24. Evernia furfuracea (tree moss extract)
  25. Evernia prunastri (oak moss extract)
  26. Butylphenyl methylpropional (Lilial) — also now banned in the EU

If checking every label against 26 names sounds like a lot, the alternative is to start from a product that contains none of them. Our Gentle Hydrating Facial Cleanser is fragrance-free in the strict sense — no parfum, no masking fragrance, no essential oils.

The five you will see most often

Limonene and linalool are by far the most common, and they are worth understanding properly. Both occur naturally in citrus and lavender oils. Both are relatively harmless in a sealed bottle — but on exposure to air they oxidise into significantly more allergenic compounds. This is why a product you tolerated when new can start causing problems months later. The formula has not changed; the molecules have.

Geraniol and citronellol — rose and geranium notes, very widespread.

Benzyl alcohol — used both as fragrance and as a preservative, which makes it ambiguous. Its presence does not always mean the product is scented.

Where fragrance hides when the label says none

  • "Unscented" products. Frequently contain a masking fragrance added to cover raw material odour. This is the single biggest trap, and it means unscented can be worse than an honestly declared parfum. See Fragrance-Free vs Unscented.
  • Essential oils and botanical extracts. Lavandula, citrus, melaleuca, mentha, cananga, pelargonium. These are fragrance by another name, and they carry the declarable allergens inside them.
  • "Aroma" and "flavor" — the lip product equivalents.
  • Extracts listed as actives that are really there for scent — rose, vanilla, jasmine.
  • Other products entirely — shampoo running down your face in the shower, laundry detergent on your pillowcase, hand soap, fabric softener, a partner’s aftershave. Facial dermatitis is frequently caused by something that never touched your face directly.

What a fragrance reaction looks like

  • Appears 24 to 72 hours after exposure, not immediately — which is why almost nobody identifies the cause
  • Itchy rather than stinging
  • Red, bumpy, sometimes with small blisters
  • Often on eyelids, neck and jawline — the thinnest skin and the classic perfume sites
  • Gets progressively worse with repeated exposure
  • May spread beyond where the product was applied

One distinctive pattern worth knowing: a mottled brown-red discolouration on the sides of the neck, from perfume applied to skin then exposed to sunlight. Spray fragrance on clothes, not on your neck.

What to do if you suspect fragrance allergy

  1. Eliminate the category entirely for six weeks — skincare, makeup, haircare, laundry, hand soap, everything.
  2. Get patch tested. Standard panels include fragrance mix I, fragrance mix II, balsam of Peru and often individual components. This gives you a name. See Patch Testing.
  3. Learn your cross-reactors. Balsam of Peru cross-reacts with cinnamon, vanilla, cloves, citrus peel and tomato — which is why some people with fragrance allergy also react to certain foods.
  4. Assume it is permanent. Contact allergy rarely resolves.
  5. Check every label, forever. Reformulations happen without warning.

The 30-second label check

Search any ingredient list for: parfum, fragrance, aroma, flavor, limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniol, eugenol, coumarin, citral, benzyl salicylate — plus oil names: lavandula, citrus, melaleuca, mentha, cananga, pelargonium, eucalyptus. Anything found means the product is scented.

Genuinely fragrance-free

Every EpiLynx product is fragrance-free in the strict sense — no parfum, no masking fragrance, no essential oils, and none of the 26 above.

Shipping is free over $39, and EPILYNXGLOW25 takes 25% off.

Frequently asked questions

Why are only 26 fragrance chemicals named on labels? EU regulation requires those 26 to be declared individually above a threshold because they are the most frequently implicated allergens. Everything else can hide inside "parfum."

Are limonene and linalool dangerous? Not in a sealed bottle. They oxidise on exposure to air into substantially more allergenic compounds, which is why a product you tolerated when new can start causing problems months later.

Is unscented the same as fragrance-free? No, and this is the biggest trap on the shelf. Unscented products frequently contain a masking fragrance added to cover raw material odour.

Can essential oils be listed as fragrance-free? Some brands do it. Essential oils are fragrance by another name and carry the declarable allergens inside them.

Why does my face react when I only changed my shampoo? Shampoo runs down your face in the shower, and detergent residue sits on your pillowcase for eight hours. Facial dermatitis is often caused by something that never touched your face directly.

Keep reading

Educational information from a pharmacist, not medical advice.

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